I just got home from school. I walked in, took off my cardigan (which proved suffocating after ten this morning), set a litre of water boiling -- to drink later, since the tap water is rumored to be unpotable -- rinsed a handful of cherry tomatoes I bought on the way home, opened a Pilsner Urquell and sat down to write.
I realize you know little of my daily life, so because today was so average, I find it apt for sharing.
Since we've started at the current time, let's work backwards from here. I bought the tomatoes at a roadside truck selling at least 10 different native fruits and vegetables (and kiwis and bananas from some far-off land). They cost 5000won ($4) for about three kilos. That's enough to feed me for a week, if I make sauces every dinner, eat some at lunch, and snack on them like I'm doing now. Produce is cheap here, so long as it's grown in the country. Beef, on the other hand, is not. There's not much space for cows so they demand a premium. Tariffs and protectionist policies (which I heartily approve of) keep the Korean ranchers from being undersold by the American Meat Machine.
On the way to the tomatoes I passed a number of other street vendors selling maternity and baby clothes, cell phones from some national Telecom, and more, but I wasn't paying attention. I met a number of students on the way, in groups of twos and threes. Most of them just yelled, "Samporduh!!" and waved, while a couple of them asked how I was and replied to my query, "Finethanksyou?"
I have two favorite student interactions. First are the ones where I ask them a question in Korean and they answer in perfect English. For example, the third grader I saw today who, when I asked her "Odie ga-yo?" (Where are you going?), gave me a look of puzzlement, and said as clearly as an American kid, "My house."
The second favorite interaction is where they ask me obvious questions in Korean, like, "Weigookin?" (Are you a foreigner?) Umm... probably?
For the last four hours of school following lunch I did two things: 1) I emailed a couple of people and chatted with my parents, my girlfriend and a friend in Iraq. 2) I read about how to make Japanese ponds -- my first project on arriving home in Covington is to reform our prodigal backyard. (Prodigal, as in it keeps coming back in horrible shape.)
[On a side note: since Tomatoes are semi-poisonous, just how many of these things can I eat before I suffer their negative effects?]
For lunch I ate PB&J, a banana and a chocolate bar. Which is a bit juvenile, but I didn't feel like exerting effort. I read a chapter of Jhumpa Lahiri's The Namesake as well.
In the morning I had four nearly identical classes in a row. I started each class with my co-teacher, saying Hello, and What's The Date Today and those sorts of things, while I loaded the CD from the national curriculum. I administered a reading test to the few students who were away at science or water-rocket launching competitions yesterday. Once the CD loaded, I clicked on various videos and we asked the students to explain what they saw / heard. I gave a pop quiz on one of the longer videos, with mind-rending questions like, "Where was the boy?" (Possible answers: gift shop, toy shop, New York City, the USA) and "Why didn't the boy buy the toy helicopter?" (It was too expensive. He was in the Statue of Liberty gift shop -- what'd he expect?)
I'd arrived at school just after 8:30, gotten up just after 7:30 and slept last night around 4:30 (with the summer heat comes insomnia). Breakfast was frosted flakes composed of 74% corn (the rest is...?) and soy milk.
Back to the present: on the docket for the evening: maybe meeting friends after they get off work from the hagwons around nine tonight. In the meantime, putting some finishing touches on the beta of my new website, http://sharearchy.com, watching the rest of From Here to Eternity and practicing my French.
Yes, French, because it's just about time to depart this country -- perhaps for good, perhaps not. And French is a useful language, not to mention it's easier than Korean for a native-English speaker.
Showing posts with label tongyeong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tongyeong. Show all posts
May 14, 2009
January 10, 2009
An update, two weeks late
This is an email I sent on December 26. I didn't have time to post it here as I spent the next week traveling. Then I forgot it. Now, finally, an update, two weeks post. It's still fairly pertinent.
I'm drinking a Coke, High Fructose Corn Syrup and all. I just ate a Skippy peanut butter sandwich on the closest thing to white bread I've had in a decade.
I must be missing home.
I moved to the most Puget Sound-ish city in Korea in an attempt to allay the homesickness. Didn't work. Mountains here are 400 meters tall (I miss the sunset silhouetting the Olympics). Whole wheat bread means they didn't quite turn all the flour white (I miss Franz breads baked the same morning). The only non-Korean food here is quasi-Italian or pizza (I miss Ethiopian, Thai, Moroccan). Korea's homogeneous (I miss walking around Greenlake hearing 10 different languages). It RARELY rains here (and when it does you can't enjoy it for dodging the hordes of umbrellas -- Yesterday in Busan, every Korean I saw had an umbrella, save two who were carrying open wine bottles! :D). Most roads here are tollroads or full of traffic signals (I miss cruising for hours, through multiple climates, without slowing or stopping).
But, as I told my cousin, things are exactly how they should be. I've been sick a lot lately, which comes with new germs and new foods and new stresses, but that hasn't slowed me too much. I've been working on curriculum for a UN sponsored English camp to be held this January and trying not to miss the conveniences of the US too much. Things like warm cookies, aesthetics and carpet.
Korea and I are fighting right now. It's normal culture shock sort of stuff, but it's exasperated by the lack of tolerance I have when I'm tired, stressed and sick. I did find a ticket home for Christmas, a ~$170 round trip non-stop to Vancouver. A short train ride and I'd be home. Only the government taxes on the ticket totaled nearly a thousand dollars. ... So I'm spending Christmas in Tongyeong.
I've more journalistic entries in the works, but progress writing is quite slow as I don't have ready access to a computer. I'm scrounging to afford a computer during post-Christmas sales, but until then I have about 30 uninterrupted minutes a day on my school computer. The PC rooms I used to frequent are now off limits to me -- too much smoke, too little ventilation.
Vacation's just starting up here, and officially began the 24th. I'll have the 24th, 25th, 26th, 31st, 1st and 2nd off. Then I've two weeks of English camps. Following those Lauren and I have tickets to Thailand for two weeks. I'm very excited about the potential for warmth, Thai food and more people to more easily communicate with (from what I hear, there's more English speakers and foreigners in Thailand than Korea).
I've been silent so much here that now, after three months, whenever I get a chance to converse, I talk like a stampeding cow. My head shuts off and I dump a thousand word essay in the lap of the person I'm talking [at]. Then I realize it's been minutes since I inhaled and I relapse into silence. It's not the most effective way to win friends and influence people.
At the moment I'm headed to Busan, the closest metropolitan city (3+million people). Museums, Western food, and a doctor are all on the docket. It being Kwanzaa here, and Christmas where you are.
If you want a good laugh, here's an article about some Korean children, not unlike some children from the US. Politicians vary little, throughout the world.
http://news.xinhuanet.com/english/2008-12/18/content_10525584.htm
Gotta go, the bus leaves soon.
Happy Hanukkah to Jews. Happy Kwanzaa to those of African heritage. Merry Christmas to Christians and consumers. And Happy Holidays for everyone who goes in for that sort of thing.
I'm drinking a Coke, High Fructose Corn Syrup and all. I just ate a Skippy peanut butter sandwich on the closest thing to white bread I've had in a decade.
I must be missing home.
I moved to the most Puget Sound-ish city in Korea in an attempt to allay the homesickness. Didn't work. Mountains here are 400 meters tall (I miss the sunset silhouetting the Olympics). Whole wheat bread means they didn't quite turn all the flour white (I miss Franz breads baked the same morning). The only non-Korean food here is quasi-Italian or pizza (I miss Ethiopian, Thai, Moroccan). Korea's homogeneous (I miss walking around Greenlake hearing 10 different languages). It RARELY rains here (and when it does you can't enjoy it for dodging the hordes of umbrellas -- Yesterday in Busan, every Korean I saw had an umbrella, save two who were carrying open wine bottles! :D). Most roads here are tollroads or full of traffic signals (I miss cruising for hours, through multiple climates, without slowing or stopping).
But, as I told my cousin, things are exactly how they should be. I've been sick a lot lately, which comes with new germs and new foods and new stresses, but that hasn't slowed me too much. I've been working on curriculum for a UN sponsored English camp to be held this January and trying not to miss the conveniences of the US too much. Things like warm cookies, aesthetics and carpet.
Korea and I are fighting right now. It's normal culture shock sort of stuff, but it's exasperated by the lack of tolerance I have when I'm tired, stressed and sick. I did find a ticket home for Christmas, a ~$170 round trip non-stop to Vancouver. A short train ride and I'd be home. Only the government taxes on the ticket totaled nearly a thousand dollars. ... So I'm spending Christmas in Tongyeong.
I've more journalistic entries in the works, but progress writing is quite slow as I don't have ready access to a computer. I'm scrounging to afford a computer during post-Christmas sales, but until then I have about 30 uninterrupted minutes a day on my school computer. The PC rooms I used to frequent are now off limits to me -- too much smoke, too little ventilation.
Vacation's just starting up here, and officially began the 24th. I'll have the 24th, 25th, 26th, 31st, 1st and 2nd off. Then I've two weeks of English camps. Following those Lauren and I have tickets to Thailand for two weeks. I'm very excited about the potential for warmth, Thai food and more people to more easily communicate with (from what I hear, there's more English speakers and foreigners in Thailand than Korea).
I've been silent so much here that now, after three months, whenever I get a chance to converse, I talk like a stampeding cow. My head shuts off and I dump a thousand word essay in the lap of the person I'm talking [at]. Then I realize it's been minutes since I inhaled and I relapse into silence. It's not the most effective way to win friends and influence people.
At the moment I'm headed to Busan, the closest metropolitan city (3+million people). Museums, Western food, and a doctor are all on the docket. It being Kwanzaa here, and Christmas where you are.
If you want a good laugh, here's an article about some Korean children, not unlike some children from the US. Politicians vary little, throughout the world.
http://news.xinhuanet.com/
Gotta go, the bus leaves soon.
Happy Hanukkah to Jews. Happy Kwanzaa to those of African heritage. Merry Christmas to Christians and consumers. And Happy Holidays for everyone who goes in for that sort of thing.
November 23, 2008
FAQ on food
I like rice. Rice is great if you're hungry and want 2000 of something.
-Mitch Hedberg
A brief list of answers to potentially common questions about Korean food:
1. Do Koreans eat kim chi with every meal?
Yep. And white rice. Even for breakfast. And when they're 35 they look 25. (Yes that's a possible Post hoc ergo propter hoc but it seems more plausible than, "God unfairly made Koreans decay 10 years slower than the rest of the world.")
2. Um... What's kim chi?
It's cabbage, ginger, garlic, peppers, green onions and fermented seafood (oysters or anchovies or shrimp). They mix it all up and then bury it in pots for a few months. When it comes out it's nutrient rich and calorie low.
3. Have you eaten octopus?
My school serves it for lunch at least once a week. And I've eaten whole squids, a squishy-still-moving-slug-ish thing (it looks like digestion), fresh shrimp (cooked in the most torturous way the locals could conceive), abalone, chestnuts, the best pears in the world, etc. I like the food here a lot. But I'll be honest: I'm pretty sick of octopus, if you want to know the truth.
3a. What's the most torturous way the locals could conceive?
They put a quarter inch of salt in the bottom of a pan, heat it up, and toss in live shrimp. When they put the lid on the shrimp bounce around like popcorn, trying to flee the searing heat. After two or three minutes, some shrimp are still jumping. The first (and only) time I saw it, I lost my appetite. Why they don't kill them instantly via beheading or boiling, I hope has more to do with efficiency and less with deep-rooted sadism.
4. Oooook... something happier perhaps? What's octopus taste like?
Octopus tastes unique. It's really rich, like Top Ramen condensed into 8 tentacles. And sometimes it's entirely blah. I think it depends on how it's cooked. Sometimes it chews like thick noodles. Other times it's like masticating surgical tubing.
5. Is there anything Koreans eat that you refuse to try?
One thing: dog. They eat dog here. I have yet to see it for sale or in a restaurant, but seeing as I don't even like meat, I'm not about to eat Otis.
Another teacher and I remarked on the strange scarcity of shorebirds, pigeons and ravens. I've never been to a city and not seen pigeons and black birds. Nor have I ever been within 50 miles of a body of salt water and not seen seagulls. I mean, there's more seagulls in Spokane, 300 miles from a sea, than there are in Tongyeong, which rests in the middle of a bay, spread across multiple harbors and surrounded by hundreds of islands.
And, in Tongyeong, Chicken & Beer shops abound.
I'll leave you to draw your own conclusions. Meanwhile, no "chicken" for me.
6. How is the beer?
Budweiser's better. Thankfully the exchange rate ensures a bottle of Stella at a bar only costs US$5.75. You'd think that'd mean I'd drink less.
7. What do Koreans drink then?
In lieu of beer, the national drink is Soju. It's basically sweet vodka with a tequila kick. I won't touch the stuff. My co-workers and principals do, frequently. It's considered a marketable skill to be able to drink your boss under the table so people here practice a lot. Not kidding.
8. What's your favorite food?
I like most of it. The ingredients are fresh, cheap and the fish and rice are ecologically friendly. A lot of foods have labels telling you how close to organic it is. Also they eat food that's in season for the most part. So we've got great fruits right now and certain types of fish. I'm guessing in the next season we'll be eating different types of fish. The fast majority of fish we eat is caught the same day and live up until a couple of minutes before we eat it. Restaurants have tanks of fish out in front so you can preview dinner. In the fish markets, little old ladies sitting on stools point at the live fish they have in shallow bowls, which then protest by splashing water everywhere.
But the soups win overall. They're spicy, hearty, and healthy. Sometimes they have tofu, or muscles or shrimp. Other time they have fish in them. Like whole fish, chopped into three pieces and plopped into your soup.
8. How spicy?
Let me give you an example: a couple weeks ago I for dinner I ate fire. Of course I don't mean crackling in your fireplace fire. Oh no. I mean burned at the stake in the inquisition fire. Midway through my meal the pain reached a sufficient level, so I doused my mouth with just about a litre of water, which I hope simultaneously protected my stomach lining from vaporizing. It was quite the exercise in suffering. Like a good Korean Buddhist I strove to accept my circumstances as inescapable, and by the end of my meal I'd achieved complete detachment, albeit through ambivalence towards survival and a blunt numbness in my mouth.
I'm not complaining though. I'm convinced the spicy food best explains why I haven't been sick in Korea. Since so many illnesses enter the body through the nose and since my sinuses are regularly drained by lunch or dinner, germs have little time to colonize my body.
9. Sooo... that's your favorite food?
Not actually. One food in particular stands out as remarkable though. It's called 실비 and pronounced Shill-bee. It's entirely antithetical to profitable restauranteering. Say you go out for fish in the United States. You want a bit of seafood too. So you buy some fish, some muscles, oysters, clams on the half shell, then move on to some squid, a bit of abalone, and then a couple of crabs. You decide you want some beer. So you order a few of those. The meal runs you a hundred bucks or so. The food, if you're lucky was caught within the past week, and only on ice for a couple of days total.
Ok, now shillbe. You do things in reverse. You buy five or six beers. At 5,000 won each they run you around $30. That's some expensive beer. But here comes the finger food. It starts with some raw squid, octopus, muscles, some steamed oysters, abalone, and other seafoods. There's kimchi of course, and some potato pancakes. There's plenty of other sides as well (bean sprouts, seaweed, etc). You drink and eat to your fill. Then the server returns. This time she deposits four fried fish, some cooked squid, some new shellfish, some seaslugg-ish thing, some rice, etc. You're full again, but oh, here she comes with more fish, more seafood, more sides. Ad infinitum. She came back with at least 4 courses, but I really can't remember. I was rolling around on my back, futilely flailing my hands.
Oh and this fish and these seafoods were harvested that morning. Thirty bucks for more seafood than you can eat and 5 large beers to share amongst your friends. Perfect.
10. Do you ever miss food from home?
Yes! Lauren and I agree that its the small things we miss most about home. And most of those small things are food.
I miss flavor. Korean food has three flavors: spicy, fishy and umami. When we eat spaghetti, Korean people sometimes express surprise at the intensity of flavors. When I eat the same spaghetti I think, "Well, it's not that spicy."
I miss the diversity of tastes and spices in food from home. I miss that on Monday I can eat Mediterranean or Teriyaki, on Tuesday French or Chinese, on Wednesday Ukranian or Italian, on Thursday Thai or Indian, on Friday Ethiopian or Mexican, on Saturday fish-and-chips or Sushi, on Sunday oatmeal and all the leftovers. Every day here I eat Korean food. There's diversity in Korean foods, but it's still bit monotonous, and you know how much I abhor monotony.
I miss my Mom's soups on the first crisp days of fall. I miss Rachel's fresh baked chocolate chip cookies. I miss my dad's barbecue and chocolate milk. I miss sub sandwiches. I miss the choice and the paradox that comes with it.
Appreciate what you have: if you're not living in Poland or small-town Korea, you have plenty of options at dinner time.
If you have more questions, contact me. I love the food here, so I'm happy to talk about it.
-Mitch Hedberg
A brief list of answers to potentially common questions about Korean food:
1. Do Koreans eat kim chi with every meal?
Yep. And white rice. Even for breakfast. And when they're 35 they look 25. (Yes that's a possible Post hoc ergo propter hoc but it seems more plausible than, "God unfairly made Koreans decay 10 years slower than the rest of the world.")
2. Um... What's kim chi?
It's cabbage, ginger, garlic, peppers, green onions and fermented seafood (oysters or anchovies or shrimp). They mix it all up and then bury it in pots for a few months. When it comes out it's nutrient rich and calorie low.
3. Have you eaten octopus?
My school serves it for lunch at least once a week. And I've eaten whole squids, a squishy-still-moving-slug-ish thing (it looks like digestion), fresh shrimp (cooked in the most torturous way the locals could conceive), abalone, chestnuts, the best pears in the world, etc. I like the food here a lot. But I'll be honest: I'm pretty sick of octopus, if you want to know the truth.
3a. What's the most torturous way the locals could conceive?
They put a quarter inch of salt in the bottom of a pan, heat it up, and toss in live shrimp. When they put the lid on the shrimp bounce around like popcorn, trying to flee the searing heat. After two or three minutes, some shrimp are still jumping. The first (and only) time I saw it, I lost my appetite. Why they don't kill them instantly via beheading or boiling, I hope has more to do with efficiency and less with deep-rooted sadism.
4. Oooook... something happier perhaps? What's octopus taste like?
Octopus tastes unique. It's really rich, like Top Ramen condensed into 8 tentacles. And sometimes it's entirely blah. I think it depends on how it's cooked. Sometimes it chews like thick noodles. Other times it's like masticating surgical tubing.
5. Is there anything Koreans eat that you refuse to try?
One thing: dog. They eat dog here. I have yet to see it for sale or in a restaurant, but seeing as I don't even like meat, I'm not about to eat Otis.
Another teacher and I remarked on the strange scarcity of shorebirds, pigeons and ravens. I've never been to a city and not seen pigeons and black birds. Nor have I ever been within 50 miles of a body of salt water and not seen seagulls. I mean, there's more seagulls in Spokane, 300 miles from a sea, than there are in Tongyeong, which rests in the middle of a bay, spread across multiple harbors and surrounded by hundreds of islands.
And, in Tongyeong, Chicken & Beer shops abound.
I'll leave you to draw your own conclusions. Meanwhile, no "chicken" for me.
6. How is the beer?
Budweiser's better. Thankfully the exchange rate ensures a bottle of Stella at a bar only costs US$5.75. You'd think that'd mean I'd drink less.
7. What do Koreans drink then?
In lieu of beer, the national drink is Soju. It's basically sweet vodka with a tequila kick. I won't touch the stuff. My co-workers and principals do, frequently. It's considered a marketable skill to be able to drink your boss under the table so people here practice a lot. Not kidding.
8. What's your favorite food?
I like most of it. The ingredients are fresh, cheap and the fish and rice are ecologically friendly. A lot of foods have labels telling you how close to organic it is. Also they eat food that's in season for the most part. So we've got great fruits right now and certain types of fish. I'm guessing in the next season we'll be eating different types of fish. The fast majority of fish we eat is caught the same day and live up until a couple of minutes before we eat it. Restaurants have tanks of fish out in front so you can preview dinner. In the fish markets, little old ladies sitting on stools point at the live fish they have in shallow bowls, which then protest by splashing water everywhere.
But the soups win overall. They're spicy, hearty, and healthy. Sometimes they have tofu, or muscles or shrimp. Other time they have fish in them. Like whole fish, chopped into three pieces and plopped into your soup.
8. How spicy?
Let me give you an example: a couple weeks ago I for dinner I ate fire. Of course I don't mean crackling in your fireplace fire. Oh no. I mean burned at the stake in the inquisition fire. Midway through my meal the pain reached a sufficient level, so I doused my mouth with just about a litre of water, which I hope simultaneously protected my stomach lining from vaporizing. It was quite the exercise in suffering. Like a good Korean Buddhist I strove to accept my circumstances as inescapable, and by the end of my meal I'd achieved complete detachment, albeit through ambivalence towards survival and a blunt numbness in my mouth.
I'm not complaining though. I'm convinced the spicy food best explains why I haven't been sick in Korea. Since so many illnesses enter the body through the nose and since my sinuses are regularly drained by lunch or dinner, germs have little time to colonize my body.
9. Sooo... that's your favorite food?
Not actually. One food in particular stands out as remarkable though. It's called 실비 and pronounced Shill-bee. It's entirely antithetical to profitable restauranteering. Say you go out for fish in the United States. You want a bit of seafood too. So you buy some fish, some muscles, oysters, clams on the half shell, then move on to some squid, a bit of abalone, and then a couple of crabs. You decide you want some beer. So you order a few of those. The meal runs you a hundred bucks or so. The food, if you're lucky was caught within the past week, and only on ice for a couple of days total.
Ok, now shillbe. You do things in reverse. You buy five or six beers. At 5,000 won each they run you around $30. That's some expensive beer. But here comes the finger food. It starts with some raw squid, octopus, muscles, some steamed oysters, abalone, and other seafoods. There's kimchi of course, and some potato pancakes. There's plenty of other sides as well (bean sprouts, seaweed, etc). You drink and eat to your fill. Then the server returns. This time she deposits four fried fish, some cooked squid, some new shellfish, some seaslugg-ish thing, some rice, etc. You're full again, but oh, here she comes with more fish, more seafood, more sides. Ad infinitum. She came back with at least 4 courses, but I really can't remember. I was rolling around on my back, futilely flailing my hands.
Oh and this fish and these seafoods were harvested that morning. Thirty bucks for more seafood than you can eat and 5 large beers to share amongst your friends. Perfect.
10. Do you ever miss food from home?
Yes! Lauren and I agree that its the small things we miss most about home. And most of those small things are food.
I miss flavor. Korean food has three flavors: spicy, fishy and umami. When we eat spaghetti, Korean people sometimes express surprise at the intensity of flavors. When I eat the same spaghetti I think, "Well, it's not that spicy."
I miss the diversity of tastes and spices in food from home. I miss that on Monday I can eat Mediterranean or Teriyaki, on Tuesday French or Chinese, on Wednesday Ukranian or Italian, on Thursday Thai or Indian, on Friday Ethiopian or Mexican, on Saturday fish-and-chips or Sushi, on Sunday oatmeal and all the leftovers. Every day here I eat Korean food. There's diversity in Korean foods, but it's still bit monotonous, and you know how much I abhor monotony.
I miss my Mom's soups on the first crisp days of fall. I miss Rachel's fresh baked chocolate chip cookies. I miss my dad's barbecue and chocolate milk. I miss sub sandwiches. I miss the choice and the paradox that comes with it.
Appreciate what you have: if you're not living in Poland or small-town Korea, you have plenty of options at dinner time.
If you have more questions, contact me. I love the food here, so I'm happy to talk about it.
October 21, 2008
Context, Details, Teaching English
Let me give you some context.
Korea is like a neck and Gyeongsangnam-do is like the necklace, from which three pendants hang. Tongyeong is those diamonds laid on a bed of mother of pearl, which is the sea. The necklace and the neck are emerald mountains speckled with vermillion and amber sapphires: tufts of turning leaves.
You can see chocolate stones jutting from the oyster sand beneath the clear seas. The coves are shallow, but the channels are deep. Ships weave between islets. This land the fantasy writers dreamed to design. I walk through close streets, neon-lit. My eyes are light; now every turn brings something new. Foreign words for foreign concepts, hastily beloved. Shillbe, choding hakkyo, noribong.
Here I'm a celebrity. Here I have three arms. My tongue makes two statements: what I meant, and "aberration". Here I am "handsome teacher", like Quasimodo.
Here people I've never met pay for my food, secretly. I go to pay and the owner says, "Anyo, anyo." No, no. It's paid.
I've had the chance to test my philosophy. And it's strong. I'm happy.
To be specific:
Over the weekend the sixth graders went on a fieldtrip to Seoul. I spent the day coaxing them towards English explanations. They saw parliment, the money museum and science museum (it sounds like New York's Museum of Natural History plus robots), the President's house (named the "Blue House" for its roof), and the largest amusement park in Korea. Their favorite part of the trip? I'll give you one guess.
They adored the 50m tall, 60mph, 77 degree decline on what is perhaps the scariest looking wooden roller coaster I've ever seen. I would not board that thing unless my family and friends' lives depended on it. They liked staying up late and eating snacks and talking and watching TV. Ah, at least some things never change. Not that I mind change, but really, I think we had more fun on bus trips. I asked them what they did on the drive to Seoul. They said, in order of frequency: MP3s! Cellphone Games! Nintendo DS! Sleep! Talk!
WHAT? What happened to SONGS? Summer camp songs!? Not that I can remember any of them. And the Alphabet game? License Plates? Slugbug? Books!? I'm not sure if I was easily entertained or if childhood has been irreversibly dislodged from the human experience. Ah-gup-dah, to say the least. Ahgupdah means disappointed. I'm not going to hazard a guess at the Korean spelling. Ok I am: 아급다
I'm learning Hangul as quick as I can. Today was my day to learn words and promptly forget them, but yesterday went better. I don't have a Hangul course or textbook or anything so I'm picking it up randomly where I can, from fellow teachers, friends, street signs, wherever. I learned ahgupdah from playing Billiards.
Oh right, billiards. You're not going to believe people do this to themselves. In Korea, men, for pure amusement (and possibly for camaraderie) play billiards. I'm not talking about pocket ball, commonly known as "pool" in the States. Billiards has no pockets, though otherwise the table is traditional. I played two different but connected games: 4 ball and 3 cushion. 4 ball is relatively easy: hit you cue ball so that it hits both red balls on the table without hitting the other team's cue ball. Easy easy. Not. Once you've done that maybe 25 times, you're done warming up. Now it's time for 3 cushion. In three cushion there are multiple levels. The first involves hitting your cue ball so that it hits a red ball, hits exactly three cushions and then hits the other red ball. Which is easier than the second level in which you have to hit three cushions and then BOTH red balls.
Oriupdah. Difficult. Said difficulty meant I said ahgupdah all night long. I scored 2 points. My partner scored at least 30. These guys are amazing. They examine the table, muse for two or maybe three seconds, lean over, aim and bam, cue ball hits both reds.
Me? Oh I examine the table. I note that the table is green. I note that red ball #2 is not conveniently placed. I muse for 10 maybe 20 seconds. No timely typhoon or earthquake distracts my companions, so I leave red ball #2 where it is. I lean over, say the rosary and bam, my cue ball hits red ball #1, then gravitates towards wherever red ball #2 isn't -- usually the other cue ball. I stand up, say ahgupdah with some conviction, accept condolences and pretend I have faith I'll figure this game out.
But don't tell anyone.
Teaching English
The second round with the third graders went well. If you keep them distracted and repeating everything you say, they don't have time to form coalitions and impeach you. They absolutely love learning and I absolutely love the way they call me "Mr. Sample".
Back to the 6th graders and today's lesson and my philosophy: When I mentioned the songs we'd sing on bus trips, one of the male students called me the Korean equivalent of "baby", an epithet which incited the other male students to my defense. They insisted I guard my honor and fight the student on the spot. I politely declined and proceeded to explain I'd rather shake his hand and make a friend than punch his lights out and make an enemy. To which one of the nicer students called me "Gandhi". At which point I realized I was breaking Epictetus' maxim of never explaining your philosophy, but rather living it. So I shook the kid's hand and moved on.
Crisis averted.
On a(n even) funnier note: today at lunch some of my 4th graders came to visit me after they finished eating. Their homeroom teacher is one of my friends here so I asked them if he was a good teacher. To which the smartest kid in school (a 4th grader!) replied, "No! He's bad! He's very bad!" She proceeded to explain that the teacher tells them to "Sit down and to shut up," a teaching style she disapproves of. She asked me if I knew her teacher. I said, "Oh yes. He's my friend." She blanched and covered her mouth and said, "Please don't tell him!"
Of course I did. I turned to the table behind me, where he happened to be sitting, and asked him if it could be true. He denied everything. Which was to be expected.
I returned to the prosecutor for more details. She repeated her accusation, so I drove to the root of the issue: I asked if kids stood up in class. She said yes. I asked if students talked a lot in class, if they were very loud. She answered in the affirmative again.
The solution stood plainly before me: "You know," I said, "if all the students sat down and didn't talk, he wouldn't say 'Sit down' or 'Shut up'." Then she sunk me with a truth too obvious to refute: "Yes," she said, "But we're children and children need to run around and talk."
That's what a Whitworth education gets you: swift defeat in a debate with a 10 year old.
More, eventually. Don't wait up nights.
Well, it's bedtime here, 7:00 in Seattle, 10:00 in New York and 16:00 in Paris and you're all going about your days. I hope they're grand. Miss you my loves, but not enough to call or come home. Be in touch. I'll be too.
Korea is like a neck and Gyeongsangnam-do is like the necklace, from which three pendants hang. Tongyeong is those diamonds laid on a bed of mother of pearl, which is the sea. The necklace and the neck are emerald mountains speckled with vermillion and amber sapphires: tufts of turning leaves.
You can see chocolate stones jutting from the oyster sand beneath the clear seas. The coves are shallow, but the channels are deep. Ships weave between islets. This land the fantasy writers dreamed to design. I walk through close streets, neon-lit. My eyes are light; now every turn brings something new. Foreign words for foreign concepts, hastily beloved. Shillbe, choding hakkyo, noribong.
Here I'm a celebrity. Here I have three arms. My tongue makes two statements: what I meant, and "aberration". Here I am "handsome teacher", like Quasimodo.
Here people I've never met pay for my food, secretly. I go to pay and the owner says, "Anyo, anyo." No, no. It's paid.
I've had the chance to test my philosophy. And it's strong. I'm happy.
To be specific:
Over the weekend the sixth graders went on a fieldtrip to Seoul. I spent the day coaxing them towards English explanations. They saw parliment, the money museum and science museum (it sounds like New York's Museum of Natural History plus robots), the President's house (named the "Blue House" for its roof), and the largest amusement park in Korea. Their favorite part of the trip? I'll give you one guess.
They adored the 50m tall, 60mph, 77 degree decline on what is perhaps the scariest looking wooden roller coaster I've ever seen. I would not board that thing unless my family and friends' lives depended on it. They liked staying up late and eating snacks and talking and watching TV. Ah, at least some things never change. Not that I mind change, but really, I think we had more fun on bus trips. I asked them what they did on the drive to Seoul. They said, in order of frequency: MP3s! Cellphone Games! Nintendo DS! Sleep! Talk!
WHAT? What happened to SONGS? Summer camp songs!? Not that I can remember any of them. And the Alphabet game? License Plates? Slugbug? Books!? I'm not sure if I was easily entertained or if childhood has been irreversibly dislodged from the human experience. Ah-gup-dah, to say the least. Ahgupdah means disappointed. I'm not going to hazard a guess at the Korean spelling. Ok I am: 아급다
I'm learning Hangul as quick as I can. Today was my day to learn words and promptly forget them, but yesterday went better. I don't have a Hangul course or textbook or anything so I'm picking it up randomly where I can, from fellow teachers, friends, street signs, wherever. I learned ahgupdah from playing Billiards.
Oh right, billiards. You're not going to believe people do this to themselves. In Korea, men, for pure amusement (and possibly for camaraderie) play billiards. I'm not talking about pocket ball, commonly known as "pool" in the States. Billiards has no pockets, though otherwise the table is traditional. I played two different but connected games: 4 ball and 3 cushion. 4 ball is relatively easy: hit you cue ball so that it hits both red balls on the table without hitting the other team's cue ball. Easy easy. Not. Once you've done that maybe 25 times, you're done warming up. Now it's time for 3 cushion. In three cushion there are multiple levels. The first involves hitting your cue ball so that it hits a red ball, hits exactly three cushions and then hits the other red ball. Which is easier than the second level in which you have to hit three cushions and then BOTH red balls.
Oriupdah. Difficult. Said difficulty meant I said ahgupdah all night long. I scored 2 points. My partner scored at least 30. These guys are amazing. They examine the table, muse for two or maybe three seconds, lean over, aim and bam, cue ball hits both reds.
Me? Oh I examine the table. I note that the table is green. I note that red ball #2 is not conveniently placed. I muse for 10 maybe 20 seconds. No timely typhoon or earthquake distracts my companions, so I leave red ball #2 where it is. I lean over, say the rosary and bam, my cue ball hits red ball #1, then gravitates towards wherever red ball #2 isn't -- usually the other cue ball. I stand up, say ahgupdah with some conviction, accept condolences and pretend I have faith I'll figure this game out.
But don't tell anyone.
Teaching English
The second round with the third graders went well. If you keep them distracted and repeating everything you say, they don't have time to form coalitions and impeach you. They absolutely love learning and I absolutely love the way they call me "Mr. Sample".
Back to the 6th graders and today's lesson and my philosophy: When I mentioned the songs we'd sing on bus trips, one of the male students called me the Korean equivalent of "baby", an epithet which incited the other male students to my defense. They insisted I guard my honor and fight the student on the spot. I politely declined and proceeded to explain I'd rather shake his hand and make a friend than punch his lights out and make an enemy. To which one of the nicer students called me "Gandhi". At which point I realized I was breaking Epictetus' maxim of never explaining your philosophy, but rather living it. So I shook the kid's hand and moved on.
Crisis averted.
On a(n even) funnier note: today at lunch some of my 4th graders came to visit me after they finished eating. Their homeroom teacher is one of my friends here so I asked them if he was a good teacher. To which the smartest kid in school (a 4th grader!) replied, "No! He's bad! He's very bad!" She proceeded to explain that the teacher tells them to "Sit down and to shut up," a teaching style she disapproves of. She asked me if I knew her teacher. I said, "Oh yes. He's my friend." She blanched and covered her mouth and said, "Please don't tell him!"
Of course I did. I turned to the table behind me, where he happened to be sitting, and asked him if it could be true. He denied everything. Which was to be expected.
I returned to the prosecutor for more details. She repeated her accusation, so I drove to the root of the issue: I asked if kids stood up in class. She said yes. I asked if students talked a lot in class, if they were very loud. She answered in the affirmative again.
The solution stood plainly before me: "You know," I said, "if all the students sat down and didn't talk, he wouldn't say 'Sit down' or 'Shut up'." Then she sunk me with a truth too obvious to refute: "Yes," she said, "But we're children and children need to run around and talk."
That's what a Whitworth education gets you: swift defeat in a debate with a 10 year old.
More, eventually. Don't wait up nights.
Well, it's bedtime here, 7:00 in Seattle, 10:00 in New York and 16:00 in Paris and you're all going about your days. I hope they're grand. Miss you my loves, but not enough to call or come home. Be in touch. I'll be too.
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